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Error - unable to initiate communication with LISTSERV (errno=10061, phase=CONNECT, target=127.0.0.1:2306). The server is probably not started. I've been asked to provide a summary of the answers I got (sorry for not doing so in my previous answer - I hadn't realized others would be interested!). Here goes:


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One of the most productive search words is "Dandies."  Just checked your catalog, and there are several good starting books there.

LC#: GT6270 & CT9985

You student may need to sort out stage costume from social dress, as the former is frequently intended to be a grotesque of the latter.  (The proportions also need to be exaggerated to be seen by a large audience).

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if you have access to the HarpWeek (Harper's Weekly) database my recollection is that there was a subject heading: "dandies, fops and swells"


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if you somehow have access to the Vogue Archive database, that would be an excellent place to start. We have it here at Marriott, but I'm not sure how many other schools have it. It is a great database to browse by year. 

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You might recommend LCSH dandies and dandies in literature. The origin is earlier, but the term has been used extensively in academic discourse to describe male fashion consciousness. I found the following titles, both of which seem to correspond (at least in part) to the time frame mentioned:

Ugolini, Laura. Men and menswear : sartorial consumption in Britain 1880-1939. 

Miller, Monica L. Slaves to fashion: black dandyism and the styling of black diasporic identity


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A search under Men AND Clothing & dress produced over 5,000 hits in The New York Public Library's Digital Gallery. Clicking on any of these images leads to more linked subject headings to try. Hope this helps.
http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/dgkeysearchresult.cfm?keyword=men+AND+clothing+%26+dress+

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100 Hundred years of menswear, by Cally Blackman.  (Has just 1 page mentioning Beau Brummell, the quinessential dandy....[he is British}

American fashion menswear, by Robert E. Bryan. chapter on the Dandy - mentions current and 1920's dandy, such as as Gerald Murphy. Oscar Wilde, etc.


Fashion for men: an illustrated history.  by Diana de marly.   Contains one chapter: Neo-classical nudes and dandies.
[British, but mentions 1700 - early 1800's.

The Perfect gentlemen: the pursuit of timeless elegance and style in London by james Sherwood.
Chapter on Please, excess and ostentationism.

Also, I highly recommend this book, but its checked out, so I'm not sure how it deals with your subject.

Hill, Daniel Delis, 1952- :  American menswear : from the Civil War to the twenty-first century /
     Lubbock, Texas : Texas Tech University Press, [2011], 2011.
     xvi, 374 pages : illustrations ; 29 cm.

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Does your library subscribe to Berg Fashion Library (online)?  If so, it'd be worth looking up a few terms: dandy and flaneur.

In Berg Dictionary of Fashion History via Berg Fashion [online], I looked up the term, "dandy," which gave me a good definition of the term plus related terms.

Here's a copy of the definition:

Dandy
Related Entries:
heavy swell
masher

Source: Berg Dictionary of Fashion History
(M)
Period: ca. 1816 onwards.

A name for an exquisitely fashionable man, as represented by Lord Petersham. ‘The made up male doll who, when wig, dyed whiskers, stiff cravat, padded breast, paint and perfume are taken away, sinks into nothing.’ (The Hermit in London,ed. 1822) By 1829 ‘Dandy has been voted vulgar and Beau is now all the word’. (Disraeli, The Young Duke.) Count D’Orsay was described as ‘The last of the Dandies’ whose logical heirs were the heavy swell of the 1860s, and the masher of the 1880s and 1890s.

Citation: "Dandy." The Berg Fashion Library. (n.d.). http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bdfh/bdfh-div11164.xml(accessed 17 Dec. 2012).

Also, though it's not listed as a "related term" in Berg Dictionary of Fashion History (perhaps your library has the print version of this title, if not subscribing to Berg Fashion Online?), I know from art history courses that another related term is the french, "flaneur."  Indeed, the Berg Dictionary of Fashion History equates the flaneur to the dandy is a couple articles it contains.

Karen, I believe that if your patron seeks articles and books that discuss when & why men's fashion changed from being ornate to comparatively mundane, the patron will better understand why the dandy came about (probably in part as a reaction to the boring suits that became the standard dress for men, I believe as a result of the Industrial Revolution).  Understanding how the Industrial Revolution gave rise to the city, and that respectable women could now go into public unaccompanied, informs how the "flaneur," the well-dressed, wandering lone male in Paris, came about.  Impressionism deals with this topic.  

Berg Fashion Library (online) offers images, but I'm sure ARTstor has images of dandies & flaneurs & early 20th century fashionable men, too.

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Hi Karen, the terms "flaneur" and "dandy" or "dandies" have come up a lot when I've been assisting students with this kind of question. Here are a couple of resources we have that seemed helpful:

Fillin-Yeh, Susan. Dandies : fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, 2001.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and suits : the evolution of modern dress. New York: Knopf, 1995.
McDowell, Colin. The man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.

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Hi Karen, the terms "flaneur" and "dandy" or "dandies" have come up a lot when I've been assisting students with this kind of question. Here are a couple of resources we have that seemed helpful:

Fillin-Yeh, Susan. Dandies : fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, 2001.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and suits : the evolution of modern dress. New York: Knopf, 1995.
McDowell, Colin. The man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.


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V=Hi Karen, the terms "flaneur" and "dandy" or "dandies" have come up a lot when I've been assisting students with this kind of question. Here are a couple of resources we have that seemed helpful:

Fillin-Yeh, Susan. Dandies : fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, 2001.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and suits : the evolution of modern dress. New York: Knopf, 1995.
McDowell, Colin. The man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.




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Hi Karen, the terms "flaneur" and "dandy" or "dandies" have come up a lot when I've been assisting students with this kind of question. Here are a couple of resources we have that seemed helpful:

Fillin-Yeh, Susan. Dandies : fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, 2001.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and suits : the evolution of modern dress. New York: Knopf, 1995.
McDowell, Colin. The man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.


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Hi Karen, the terms "flaneur" and "dandy" or "dandies" have come up a lot when I've been assisting students with this kind of question. Here are a couple of resources we have that seemed helpful:

Fillin-Yeh, Susan. Dandies : fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, 2001.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and suits : the evolution of modern dress. New York: Knopf, 1995.
McDowell, Colin. The man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.



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You probably already have this:
Nicolino Calyo, The Soaplocks or Bowery Boys : http://chnm.gmu.edu/lostmuseum/lm/162/

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Many thanks again!

Karen at Brown

--
Karen A. Bouchard
Scholarly Resources Librarian for Art and Architecture
Rockefeller Library, Box A
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Brown University
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Phone: (401) 863-3218

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