Houston Reflections #3
By now you have gathered from previous
Reflections that Houston is a city of significant cultural diversity
and this richness is evidenced further by the strength of its various
neighborhoods, cultural attractions, architecture, cuisine, etc. I
would like to offer my own personal experience at large with this city
I now call home. Like many Houstonians, I was not born here. And, like
many Houstonians, it was a job that brought me here. Now that I have
been here five years, I could not imagine a place that better combines
big city attractions, small-town eccentricity, Southern charm, and
Western expanse. Furthermore, being the largest city in the state of
Texas lends Houston a can-do spirit that we take for granted here, but
one that simply does not exist in other cities.
The following is a list of my favorites of
Houston, a combination of the general and specific. You are likely to
bear witness to many of these-and hopefully enjoy them in the great
capacity that I do.
1. Construction
Since 2000, eleven towers have been
built and eight major structures renovated in downtown, not counting
the explosion of nearby residential complexes. In addition to the
daring hi-rises by signature architects, every neighborhood features
notable examples of Modern and contemporary architecture that interest
and excite. Indeed, the liberating climate, progressive attitude of
this young city, and the financial resources to make building projects
come to light are a combination of forces not found in many other
urban centers.
2. Transportation
The city debuted a 7-mile light rail
system a year ago, is doubling the width of many of its freeways to
accommodate its remarkable growth (there are four peripheral loops
around the city to begin with), opened a new terminal at its
Intercontinental airport, and increased traffic at the Port of Houston
(one of the busiest in the world).
3. Williams Tower and Fountain by Philip
Johnson
Disputably the tallest building in
the world apart from a central business district, Williams Tower
offers a majestic façade of cascading vertical edges and indents,
while the horseshoe-shaped Fountain ("Waterwall") presents a
crescent of falling water that is both tranquil and
exhilarating.
4. The San Jacinto
Monument
Commemorating the victory of the
Texans against the Mexicans that avenged the loss at the Alamo and
heralded the birth of the Texas Republic, it is the tallest monument
in the U.S. Adjacent to the Houston Ship Channel, it singularly
showcases Houston's history and industry with an Art Deco
sensibility.
5. Weather
Forty-five miles inland from the
Gulf of Mexico, Houston is at the confluence of cool dry air from the
north, warm dry air from Mexico, and the humid Gulf winds (Galveston
is one of the windiest places in the country). With nearly five inches
of rain per month and a year-round growing season, Houston has a
subtropical climate similar to Southeast Asia that results in very
lush and green environs-no tumbleweed here!
6. Spec's Warehouse
Store
Owned and operated by the same
Houston family since 1962, Spec's Warehouse Store (not far from the
conference hotel) is a true destination shopping experience as the
crown jewel (of their 28 stores) with over 40,000 labels of wines,
spirits, liqueurs, and beers, filling all 80,000 square feet of
selling space. It's a perfect combination of the Houstonian
entitlements to low-priced liquor and commerce on a massive
scale.
7. Geographical
Location
Houston's location between the
southeast and the west gives it unique character. Its oak-lined
streets remind one of Savannah, while the freeways are reminiscent of
Los Angeles (except our traffic actually moves). Its overgrown
tropical foliage and thriving gallery scene remind one of Key West,
while the bayous and oil-field marshes are pure Louisiana. The pine
trees are straight out of Arkansas and the palm trees, while not
native, do survive the two weeks of winter. The city's location is
equidistant to the east, west, and north coasts. Nowhere is very far
away by plane, as I recently had the pleasure of flying non-stop to
Brazil.
8. Cuisine
If I can't have Italian food every
day (in my mind the city's one blemish-that and Central Time
Zone), the abundant Mexican cuisine makes for a happy consolation. Add
to that traditional (and nouveau) Southern cooking and New Orleans
style cuisine, and it's no wonder Houstonians continually fight the
battle of the bulge (I haven't even mentioned barbecue). Red meat is
plentiful due to the cattle industry but so is seafood straight from
the Gulf-and none of it need be expensive.
9. Menil Collection's Richmond
Hall
While the collection in the main
building is one of the most impressive private collections in North
America, my favorite is Richmond Hall, one of only two permanent site
installations by Minimalist sculptor Dan Flavin. An unassuming former
grocery store with Texas Art Deco detailing, Richmond Hall has been
emptied to its shell to allow for a cavernous experience of multi-hued
fluorescent lights. Most Houstonians probably don't know it exists,
but it's a truly fabulous hidden treasure.
10. Rice University
Sure, there's some bias, but it
was founded as a pseudo-socialist institute, modeled after the great
colleges of England and the Ivy League, and originally designed in the
Neo-Babylonian style (with hanging gardens and reflecting pools). In
short, it's the university you'd design yourself from reclaimed
swamplands.
So please enjoy these and many other
interesting, unique, rewarding, and sometimes guilty pleasures of
Houston. I look forward to hearing many post-conference
details.
--
Mark Pompelia
Director, Visual Resources
Center
Dept. of Art History
Rice University
PO Box 1892, MS 21
Houston TX 77251-1892
URL:
http://arthistory.rice.edu
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