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Houston Reflections #3
By now you have gathered from previous Reflections that Houston is a city of significant cultural diversity and this richness is evidenced further by the strength of its various neighborhoods, cultural attractions, architecture, cuisine, etc. I would like to offer my own personal experience at large with this city I now call home. Like many Houstonians, I was not born here. And, like many Houstonians, it was a job that brought me here. Now that I have been here five years, I could not imagine a place that better combines big city attractions, small-town eccentricity, Southern charm, and Western expanse. Furthermore, being the largest city in the state of Texas lends Houston a can-do spirit that we take for granted here, but one that simply does not exist in other cities.
The following is a list of my favorites of Houston, a combination of the general and specific. You are likely to bear witness to many of these-and hopefully enjoy them in the great capacity that I do.

1. Construction
Since 2000, eleven towers have been built and eight major structures renovated in downtown, not counting the explosion of nearby residential complexes. In addition to the daring hi-rises by signature architects, every neighborhood features notable examples of Modern and contemporary architecture that interest and excite. Indeed, the liberating climate, progressive attitude of this young city, and the financial resources to make building projects come to light are a combination of forces not found in many other urban centers.
2. Transportation
The city debuted a 7-mile light rail system a year ago, is doubling the width of many of its freeways to accommodate its remarkable growth (there are four peripheral loops around the city to begin with), opened a new terminal at its Intercontinental airport, and increased traffic at the Port of Houston (one of the busiest in the world).
3. Williams Tower and Fountain by Philip Johnson
Disputably the tallest building in the world apart from a central business district, Williams Tower offers a majestic façade of cascading vertical edges and indents, while the horseshoe-shaped Fountain ("Waterwall") presents a crescent of falling water that is both tranquil and exhilarating.
4. The San Jacinto Monument
Commemorating the victory of the Texans against the Mexicans that avenged the loss at the Alamo and heralded the birth of the Texas Republic, it is the tallest monument in the U.S. Adjacent to the Houston Ship Channel, it singularly showcases Houston's history and industry with an Art Deco sensibility.
5. Weather
Forty-five miles inland from the Gulf of Mexico, Houston is at the confluence of cool dry air from the north, warm dry air from Mexico, and the humid Gulf winds (Galveston is one of the windiest places in the country). With nearly five inches of rain per month and a year-round growing season, Houston has a subtropical climate similar to Southeast Asia that results in very lush and green environs-no tumbleweed here!
6. Spec's Warehouse Store
Owned and operated by the same Houston family since 1962, Spec's Warehouse Store (not far from the conference hotel) is a true destination shopping experience as the crown jewel (of their 28 stores) with over 40,000 labels of wines, spirits, liqueurs, and beers, filling all 80,000 square feet of selling space. It's a perfect combination of the Houstonian entitlements to low-priced liquor and commerce on a massive scale.
7. Geographical Location
Houston's location between the southeast and the west gives it unique character. Its oak-lined streets remind one of Savannah, while the freeways are reminiscent of Los Angeles (except our traffic actually moves). Its overgrown tropical foliage and thriving gallery scene remind one of Key West, while the bayous and oil-field marshes are pure Louisiana. The pine trees are straight out of Arkansas and the palm trees, while not native, do survive the two weeks of winter. The city's location is equidistant to the east, west, and north coasts. Nowhere is very far away by plane, as I recently had the pleasure of flying non-stop to Brazil.
8. Cuisine
If I can't have Italian food every day (in my mind the city's one blemish-that and Central Time Zone), the abundant Mexican cuisine makes for a happy consolation. Add to that traditional (and nouveau) Southern cooking and New Orleans style cuisine, and it's no wonder Houstonians continually fight the battle of the bulge (I haven't even mentioned barbecue). Red meat is plentiful due to the cattle industry but so is seafood straight from the Gulf-and none of it need be expensive.
9. Menil Collection's Richmond Hall
While the collection in the main building is one of the most impressive private collections in North America, my favorite is Richmond Hall, one of only two permanent site installations by Minimalist sculptor Dan Flavin. An unassuming former grocery store with Texas Art Deco detailing, Richmond Hall has been emptied to its shell to allow for a cavernous experience of multi-hued fluorescent lights. Most Houstonians probably don't know it exists, but it's a truly fabulous hidden treasure.
10. Rice University
Sure, there's some bias, but it was founded as a pseudo-socialist institute, modeled after the great colleges of England and the Ivy League, and originally designed in the Neo-Babylonian style (with hanging gardens and reflecting pools). In short, it's the university you'd design yourself from reclaimed swamplands.

So please enjoy these and many other interesting, unique, rewarding, and sometimes guilty pleasures of Houston. I look forward to hearing many post-conference details.

--
Mark Pompelia

Director, Visual Resources Center
Dept. of Art History
Rice University
PO Box 1892, MS 21
Houston TX  77251-1892
e-mail: [log in to unmask]
ph: 713-348-4836
fax: 713-348-4039
URL: http://arthistory.rice.edu
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