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When I first moved to Houston, my friend Elyse, a native Houstonian, took me on a circuit of some of the affordable, tasty restaurants around the Museum District and Downtown. After a few weeks, I sneered to her that “there doesn’t seem to be much of a tradition of cooking at home, in this part of Texas.” Elyse smiled and responded, “John, look around you! Why would someone cook at home with all these great restaurants?”
Three years of dining out for breakfast, lunch, and dinner taught me that Elyse was right. Indeed, I’m sure I ate better and cheaper than I would have at home: something I could not dare say for any other town I know of.
As America’s fourth largest—and oft-awarded “fattest”—city, Houston is right to have the country’s most restaurants per capita. Given the population, the culinary competition, and location to the Rio Grande valley (food basket second only to California in the US), there ought to be lots of variety.
As with any city, what better way is there, to get to know neighborhoods, than by pausing in their dining establishments? Most of us will find ourselves in the Downtown/Midtown area, and Museum District. Downtown, I’d say go for the red beans and rice at Treebeard’s. Take the per diem dollars you save for dinner or brunch the next day at Táfia, run by Monica Pope, who is nationally famous for her commitment to local, organic foods. A constant lunch option will be Berryhill’s, and their fish tacos. You’ll find me enjoying at least one evening’s sunsets and margaritas at Tela’s on Kirby Avenue. Sure, there are sandwich shops and half a dozen Starbucks downtown, for those conference intermezzos. Around the museum, stop off at Spec’s wine shop for sandwiches, cheeses, desserts and for what I’d call a veritable museum of wine. The MFAH itself is known for its Café Express—way above par for museum dining. Drop by the Empire Café for a super breakfast before visiting the Menil Collection, and head for the West Alabama Ice House for a beer afterward. Within a few blocks of downtown is the Vietnamese quarter, with no end of meals for literally a couple of dollars. Real Texans will head out the Memorial parkway to join American ex-presidents for a sandwich at Otto’s Barbeque. Venturing west of the museums, into Rice Village, you’ll have a tortuously large selection of Thai, Indian, and sushi restaurants—not to mention the pair of stellar beer pubs on the edge of the University. A stop on the way to Amy’s ice cream will make you think twice about leaving town.
I’d be loathe to forget that in April, we’ll have the joyful option of sitting outdoors and enjoying fresher air and longer daylight. After a year away, I’m most excited about returning to check out the new restaurants in town, including what’s heralded in our own conference hotel.
This is but to frisk the appetite. Toward Spring, the Houston Conference Committee will produce on-line and printed guides to dining in Houston, especially restaurants and taverns within easy walking distance of our meetings. Best of all, the guide will be informed by remarks on places handpicked by our colleagues in local art libraries. For those who need to plan carefully, and can’t wait for the Conference dining guide, I’d suggest the reviews by the alternative weekly, The Houston Press. Their on-line version is at http://www.houstonpress.com/issues/current/dining_toc.html (and lists 74 restaurants in the vicinity of our hotel).
Let’s take advantage of what’s best about Houston, and conduct some of our business at table! See you there.
- John Hagood
(Fourth in a series occasional postings about Houston, from the ARLIS/NA 2005 Conference Committee)